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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.